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Fake Diamond Names: Moissanite, CZ and Rhinestones

Fake diamond names describe materials: cubic zirconia, moissanite, YAG, GGG and strass glass. Each carries one number diamond does not, starting with density.

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How to tell if your Diamond Simulants and Imitations is real

05

05. Cubic zirconia

Scale High
5.80 g/cm3 for cubic zirconia; diamond reads 3.52
ACCEPT5.60 – 6.00
Loose stones only. Weigh the stone dry on a 0.001 g scale and write the figure down. Stand a cup of distilled water on the scale, zero it, then hang the stone on fine wire so it sits under the surface touching nothing. Divide the dry weight by that second reading. For a mounted stone, close callipers on the girdle and weigh the whole piece, because width and weight disagree loudly at this density.
Authentic

Diamond lands between 3.50 and 3.53 g/cm3 whatever its colour or clarity, so it feels light for its width once you have handled a few stones. A one carat round brilliant measures 6.4 to 6.5 mm across the girdle.

On a fake

Cubic zirconia reads 5.60 to 6.00 g/cm3 and refracts at 2.15 to 2.18 against diamond's 2.42. A stone cut to the width of a one carat diamond weighs about 1.65 ct. Commercial output began in 1976 from Soviet skull crucible work, and QVC has sold it as Diamonique since buying the trade name in 1988.

06

06. Moissanite

Loupe High
0.043 birefringence, the gap between moissanite's two refractive indices of 2.648 and 2.691; diamond reads 0.000
ACCEPT0.000 – 0.043
Tilt the stone about 15 degrees off vertical and look through the crown at 10x. Focus on the junctions between the pavilion facets seen through the table, and work near the culet rather than straight down. A junction that resolves into two lines, and splits wider as the tilt increases, is the answer.
Authentic

Diamond carries a single refractive index, so no junction splits at any tilt. Its dispersion of 0.044 returns mostly white flashes with colour breaking at the edge of each facet.

On a fake

GIA published 2.648 and 2.691 for synthetic moissanite in 1997, with a dispersion of 0.104 and a hardness of 9.25 on the Mohs scale. The same paper recorded that thermal probes then on the market reacted to moissanite as if it were diamond, which is why a thermal tester alone settles nothing.

07

07. Strontium titanate

Eye High
0.190 dispersion, 4.3 times diamond's 0.044; Mohs 5.5 against diamond's 10
ACCEPT0.044 – 0.190
Work under one bare bulb in an otherwise dim room and rock the stone slowly a hand's width from your eye. Judge how much of the returned light is coloured and how much is white. Then read the facet edges at 10x for rounding, because a stone at Mohs 5.5 shows wear within months of daily use.
Authentic

Diamond breaks colour at the facet edges and never lets it dominate the return. Facet junctions on a diamond worn daily for ten years stay sharp, because diamond chips rather than abrades.

On a fake

Strontium titanate throws colour in broad sheets. Large quantities were made from about 1955 for this exact purpose and sold as Fabulite, Diagem and Marvelite. Geology.com dates its commercial run from the 1950s to the 1970s, so it turns up in inherited rings rather than new ones.

08

08. YAG

Eye High
1.833 refractive index for yttrium aluminium garnet; diamond refracts at 2.417
ACCEPT1.823 – 1.843
A bench refractometer reads this in a minute from any flat polished facet, so ask the jeweller for the figure rather than a verdict. Without an instrument, use the scale: YAG sits at 4.5 to 4.6 g/cm3, about 29 percent heavier than diamond for the same volume.
Authentic

Diamond refracts at 2.417 and disperses at 0.044, which is why a well cut stone sends light back through the table instead of leaking it out of the pavilion.

On a fake

YAG refracts at 1.833 plus or minus 0.010 and disperses at 0.028, so the stone reads glassy and short of fire beside diamond. Its trade name list runs to Diamonair, Circolite, Triamond and even Diamonique, a reminder that a trade name follows the seller and not the material.

09

09. GGG

Scale High
7.08 g/cm3 for gadolinium gallium garnet; twice diamond's 3.52
ACCEPT7.00 – 7.10
Weigh the loose stone and displace water as with any density check. GGG is the heaviest material on this page and the scale alone names it. In a mount, weigh the finished piece against an identical mount holding a stone you have already identified.
Authentic

Diamond at 3.52 g/cm3 puts 1.00 ct inside a 6.4 to 6.5 mm circle, and that pairing of width and weight holds across every cut quality.

On a fake

GGG reads 7.08 g/cm3 and refracts at 1.970, so a stone cut to the width of a one carat diamond weighs close to two carats. It shared the 1970s with YAG and lost the market to cubic zirconia, which is why it surfaces in estate jewellery rather than shop windows.

10

10. Synthetic rutile

Loupe High
0.296 birefringence at 589 nm; diamond reads 0.000
ACCEPT0.000 – 0.296
Look through the table at 10x with no tilt needed. Rutile doubles coarsely enough that back facet lines read as two separate lines rather than a fuzzy pair. Doubling this obvious rules out moissanite, whose 0.043 needs a tilt and a patient eye.
Authentic

Diamond shows no doubling at any angle, and it takes a polish that holds knife sharp facet edges for decades of wear.

On a fake

Rutile refracts at 2.613 and 2.909 with a birefringence of 0.296, the strongest doubling in this list. Synthetic production started in 1948 and the near colourless material sold as Titania. At Mohs 6.0 to 6.5 it abrades against ordinary household dust, so worn examples look soft at every junction.

11

11. White sapphire

Scale High
4.01 g/cm3 for corundum; the measured band runs 4.00 to 4.10
ACCEPT4.00 – 4.10
Weigh and displace as with any density check, then look at the light return under one point source. Corundum breaks far less colour than diamond, so the stone reads white and flat rather than lively. A 10x look at the facet junctions shows a faint doubling of 0.008, much weaker than moissanite.
Authentic

Diamond at 3.52 g/cm3 with 0.044 dispersion gives you two readings at once: a low weight for its width, and visible colour at the facet edges.

On a fake

Webmineral lists corundum at 4.01 g/cm3 with refractive indices of 1.760 and 1.768. At Mohs 9 a white sapphire survives daily wear, so it is the one material here that ages like a diamond and still fails the scale by 14 percent.

12

12. White zircon

Loupe High
0.059 birefringence in high zircon; specific gravity 4.60 to 4.80
ACCEPT0.000 – 0.059
Look through the crown at 10x for doubled back facet lines, then put the stone on the scale. Zircon sits between moissanite and rutile for doubling, and its weight for width lands near white sapphire. The two readings together name the material without a laboratory.
Authentic

Diamond shows a single line at every junction and reads 3.52 g/cm3 on a displacement test, and both figures hold whatever the stone's colour grade.

On a fake

The International Gem Society puts high zircon at 1.920 to 2.010 refractive index, a birefringence reaching 0.059, a specific gravity of 4.60 to 4.80 and a dispersion of 0.039. It notes that colourless zircon makes a convincing imitation, and that Mohs 6 to 7.5 leaves facet edges chipped after wear.

13

13. Colourless spinel

Scale Medium
1.727 refractive index for colourless spinel; the full range runs 1.712 to 1.780
ACCEPT1.712 – 1.780
Ask for a refractometer figure, because the scale will not settle this one: spinel at 3.55 to 3.90 g/cm3 is the closest density to diamond in this list. Read the light return instead. A dispersion of 0.020 is under half diamond's, so the stone looks clean and lifeless at the same time.
Authentic

Diamond returns colour at every facet edge and refracts at 2.417, a figure no oxide in this list comes near.

On a fake

The International Gem Society lists spinel at 1.712 to 1.780 refractive index, 3.55 to 3.90 g/cm3 and 0.020 dispersion, and states that most colourless spinel in jewellery is synthetic. Flame fusion makes it cheaply at small sizes, which is where it appears: the melee around a centre stone rather than the centre stone.

14

14. White topaz

Loupe Medium
1.63 refractive index for topaz, range 1.607 to 1.649; colourless material reads 3.56 to 3.57 g/cm3
ACCEPT1.607 – 1.649
Weigh and displace first. Colourless topaz reads 3.56 to 3.57 g/cm3, close enough to diamond that the scale gives a lean and not an answer. Read the girdle and the table edges at 10x instead, because topaz has one direction of perfect cleavage and worn stones show straight sided chips parallel to the table.
Authentic

Diamond cleaves as well, but at Mohs 10 it takes years of knocks to show it, and the junctions between facets stay sharp in the meantime.

On a fake

The International Gem Society gives topaz 1.607 to 1.649 refractive index, a dispersion of 0.014 and Mohs 8, with perfect basal cleavage in one direction. That dispersion is a third of diamond's, so the stone comes back bright and almost colourless under a point source.

15

15. Leaded glass

Loupe High
1.75 refractive index for lead glass, which runs 1.7 to 1.8; soda glass reads 1.5
ACCEPT1.50 – 1.80
Hunt for gas bubbles and swirl marks inside the stone at 10x, because no crystalline material carries either. Check the facet junctions for rounding, since glass at Mohs 5 to 6 loses its edges within months. Then weigh it: glass density spans 2.4 g/cm3 for soda glass up to 5.9 g/cm3 for high lead formulations.
Authentic

Diamond carries mineral inclusions and growth features rather than bubbles, and its facet junctions stay knife sharp under 10x after years of wear.

On a fake

Georg Friedrich Strass coated the back of lead glass with metal powder in the eighteenth century and gave the trade the word strass. The same material sells as paste, diamante and rhinestone. European law reserves the phrase lead crystal for glass holding at least 24 percent lead oxide, so the word crystal on a tag describes glass.

Not sure on the cubic zirconia? Photo pre-check before the return window closes.
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Fake diamond names describe materials: cubic zirconia, moissanite, YAG, GGG and strass glass. Each carries one number diamond does not, starting with density.

The Names on a Tag and the Material Under Each One

Every name in the left column is glass or a laboratory grown oxide, and none of them is carbon. Marketing names travel between materials, which is why the column that matters is the second one. Diamonique was a yttrium aluminium garnet trade name before it became a cubic zirconia trade name at QVC, and the word on the tag never changed.

Name on the tag What the material is Number that separates it from diamond Era
Cubic zirconia, CZ, Diamonique Zirconium dioxide 5.60 to 6.00 g/cm3 against 3.52 1976 to now
Moissanite Silicon carbide 0.043 birefringence against 0.000 1990s to now
Fabulite, Diagem, Marvelite Strontium titanate 0.190 dispersion against 0.044 1950s to 1970s
Diamonair, Circolite, Triamond Yttrium aluminium garnet 1.833 refractive index against 2.417 1970s
GGG Gadolinium gallium garnet 7.08 g/cm3 against 3.52 1970s
Titania Synthetic rutile 0.296 birefringence against 0.000 1948 onward
White sapphire Corundum 4.01 g/cm3 against 3.52 long standing
White zircon Zirconium silicate 0.059 birefringence against 0.000 long standing
Colourless spinel Magnesium aluminium oxide 1.727 refractive index against 2.417 melee sizes
White topaz Aluminium fluorosilicate 0.014 dispersion against 0.044 long standing
Strass, paste, diamante, rhinestone Lead glass 1.7 to 1.8 refractive index against 2.417 1700s to now

Two names in that table get confused with each other constantly. Cubic zirconia is zirconium dioxide grown in a furnace and it has no natural counterpart in jewellery. Zircon is zirconium silicate, a mineral dug out of the ground, and the colourless variety is a diamond imitation with a completely different set of numbers. A seller who writes zircon when they mean cubic zirconia is usually careless rather than dishonest. The density test separates the two in one weighing: 4.60 to 4.80 g/cm3 for zircon against 5.60 to 6.00 for cubic zirconia.

Three of these materials were the market leader in their decade and then vanished. Geology.com dates strontium titanate from the 1950s to the 1970s, and YAG and GGG both lost the trade to cubic zirconia once skull crucible growth made it cheap in 1976. That history matters when somebody inherits a ring. A stone that reads 7.08 g/cm3 is a 1970s imitation, not a modern copy, and the piece it sits in is probably period jewellery worth keeping.

Two names in the table are not imitations at all in the strict sense. White sapphire and white topaz are mined stones sold under their own names. A jeweller who sets colourless sapphire and calls it colourless sapphire has sold you exactly what it is. They land in this list because buyers meet them in settings that copy diamond engagement rings. The measured checks that separate them from diamond are the ones in the full guide to telling a diamond from a simulant.

What a Seller Is Required To Call It

Federal rules give a seller three ways to describe a stone that is not mined diamond, and all three sit in front of the stone name rather than after it. 16 CFR 23.25(b) covers the name of any precious or semi-precious stone. Used for a laboratory-grown, synthetic, imitation or simulated product, that name must be immediately preceded, with equal conspicuousness, by one of five words: laboratory-grown, laboratory-created, manufacturer-name-created, imitation or simulated. Equal conspicuousness is the part sellers drop. A listing that puts DIAMOND in the title and simulated in eight point grey at the bottom has not met the rule.

The same section carries a note that settles a common piece of copywriting. The word faux does not adequately disclose that a stone was not mined. Neither does a jeweller’s own coinage, and neither does a trade name on its own, because Diamonique and Fabulite tell a shopper nothing about carbon.

The definition doing the work sits one section earlier. 16 CFR 23.12(a) defines a diamond as a mineral consisting essentially of pure carbon crystallized in the isometric system. Paragraph (b) of the same section adds a second condition that almost nobody quotes. The unqualified word diamond may not describe an object fashioned with fewer than seventeen polished facets. A single cut carries 17 or 18 facets and a full round brilliant carries 57 or 58. The rule bites on rough and on coarse native cuts rather than on modern goods.

A third section closes the loop on adjectives. 16 CFR 23.27 makes it deceptive to use real, genuine, natural, precious or semi-precious to describe any product manufactured or produced artificially. That covers cubic zirconia sold as a real stone and moissanite sold as a genuine gem, both of which appear in marketplace listings every week.

Four things to read on a listing before you bid:

  1. The qualifier and where it sits. It belongs immediately in front of the stone name at the same size and weight as the stone name. In front, not after, and not in a specification table further down.
  2. The material word, not the brand word. A trade name is not a material. Ask which of the eleven materials in the table the seller is shipping, and get the answer in writing before payment.
  3. Width and weight together. Ask for the millimetre measurement across the girdle and the carat weight. A 6.5 mm round brilliant is 1.00 ct in diamond, about 1.65 ct in cubic zirconia and about 0.92 ct in moissanite.
  4. The marks inside the mount. A centre stone worth a laboratory report sits in marked precious metal. Reading a fineness stamp takes ten seconds with a loupe and the method is the same one used for checking whether gold is real.

Retail practice shows what compliance looks like when a company decides to follow the rule. QVC lists its own house material as Diamonique simulated diamond, with the qualifier in the product title rather than buried in the description. That is the format to compare a marketplace listing against, and the gap is usually obvious within a few seconds.

Lab-Grown Diamond Is Not a Fake Diamond

A laboratory-grown diamond is diamond. It is carbon in the isometric system, it reads 3.52 g/cm3 on a displacement test, it sits at Mohs 10, it refracts at 2.417 and it shows no doubling at any angle. Every measured check on this page passes it, because there is nothing in the material to catch. Separating a grown diamond from a mined one needs fluorescence and phosphorescence screening of a kind that laboratories run, not a loupe on a kitchen table.

The rules treat the two categories differently for that reason. Section 23.25(c) allows laboratory-grown, laboratory-created and manufacturer-name-created in front of a natural stone name only when the product has essentially the same optical, physical and chemical properties as the stone named. Cubic zirconia does not, so a listing that calls cubic zirconia a lab-grown diamond is wrong twice: wrong on the material and wrong on the qualifier it chose. Section 23.12(c) permits the word cultured for a grown diamond on one condition. A disclosure such as laboratory-created or laboratory-grown must sit immediately beside it, because cultured on its own reads as an origin claim.

The practical consequence is a price question rather than an authenticity question. A grown diamond and a mined diamond of the same weight, colour and clarity are the same material at different prices. A report from a laboratory states which one is in the box. A simulant is a different material at a fraction of the price of either, and the numbers in the specification cards on this page find it in a few minutes.

Where To Get a Stone Named Rather Than Guessed

Four routes exist and they cost different amounts of money and certainty. A graded report from a gemmological laboratory names the material and records weight, measurements and clarity, which is the only document that ties a number to an object. A bench jeweller with a refractometer and a combination tester will name most of the eleven materials in ten minutes. The combination unit matters, because a thermal-only probe reads moissanite as diamond. GIA reported that behaviour in 1997 when synthetic moissanite reached the market, and the cheap testers still sold today have the same weakness.

A 0.001 g scale and a set of callipers at home will do more than most people expect. Density alone separates cubic zirconia, GGG, white sapphire and zircon from diamond. The water displacement method used here also works on pearls and on precious metal. The limits are honest: the method needs the stone out of its setting, and spinel and topaz sit close enough to diamond that the scale gives a lean rather than an answer.

Legitly sits before all of that rather than in place of it. It reads the stone and the mount from photographs, flags the wide colour spread that points at moissanite or strontium titanate, and reads the marks inside the shank. It does not name the material and it is not a certificate, and a stone that clears the photo stage still needs the scale or the bench. Other guides in the jewellery section cover the metal side of the same question.

Verdict: Which Name Should Stop the Sale

Stop the sale when the qualifier is missing, when it sits after the stone name, or when it is smaller than the stone name. That is the cheapest check on this page and it needs no instruments. A seller who has read the rule puts imitation or simulated in the title. A seller who has not is either careless about the law or relying on you not knowing it.

Walk away when two measurements fall outside the diamond band. One reading can be your technique. A stone that weighs 1.65 ct at 6.5 mm and also throws colour in sheets is cubic zirconia, and no third test is needed. A stone that doubles its back facet lines at 10x and reads 3.22 g/cm3 is moissanite, whatever the listing said.

Keep the stone and ask a question when the name is honest and the numbers agree with it. Colourless sapphire that reads 4.01 g/cm3, and a tag that says colourless sapphire, is a correctly described piece of jewellery. The problem this page solves is not the existence of simulants. It is sellers using a name that does not match what is in the box. Every entry in the diamond guides works the same way: get the number, then compare it with the claim.

FAQ

1. Can a photograph tell me which simulant I am looking at?

No photograph separates cubic zirconia from moissanite with certainty, because the difference sits in density and double refraction rather than in appearance. Legitly pre-screens the stone and the mount from photos and flags the colour spread and the setting marks that point at a simulant, and it stops short of naming the material. A loupe and a scale finish the job in the room with the stone.

2. Is cubic zirconia the same thing as zircon?

No. Cubic zirconia is zirconium dioxide grown in a furnace and zircon is zirconium silicate mined from the ground, and the two differ in almost every measurable way. Cubic zirconia reads 5.60 to 6.00 g/cm3 with no doubling, while zircon reads 4.60 to 4.80 g/cm3 with a birefringence reaching 0.059. The names sound related because both contain zirconium, and sellers mix them up in listings constantly.

3. What is the most common fake diamond name today?

Cubic zirconia, usually written CZ, and moissanite are the two names that cover most of the market. Cubic zirconia has held that position since commercial production began in 1976 and it is the cheaper of the pair. Moissanite arrived in the 1990s, costs more, wears better at Mohs 9.25 and is the one that defeats a thermal tester.

4. Does a pass on a diamond tester prove a stone is a diamond?

No, and the reason is specific. A thermal-only probe measures how fast heat leaves the stone, and moissanite conducts heat well enough to read as diamond on that channel. A combination tester adds an electrical conductivity channel that separates the two, so the question to ask a jeweller is which instrument was used rather than whether the stone passed.

5. Is moissanite a fake diamond?

Moissanite is a different material sold under its own name, so the honest answer depends on the wording on the tag. Silicon carbide sold as moissanite is a correctly described stone with real durability at Mohs 9.25. The same stone sold as a diamond, or as a genuine gem, breaks the rules on both the stone name and the adjective.

6. What does the word crystal mean on a jewellery tag?

It means glass. European law reserves the phrase lead crystal for glass containing at least 24 percent lead oxide, and Austrian crystal is a marketing term for the rhinestone glass made by Swarovski and Preciosa. Crystal on a tag never means diamond, and lead glass at Mohs 5 to 6 rounds off its facet edges within months of wear.

7. Can a fake diamond be worth real money?

Sometimes, and the reasons are the setting and the rarity of the material rather than the stone’s sparkle. Strontium titanate is one of the costlier simulants to buy today and specimens over two carats carry a collector premium. A 1970s YAG solitaire in a hand made platinum mount is also worth more than the stone in it. The mount is the valuable part, and reading its marks takes one minute with a loupe.

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Sources
  1. law.cornell.edu www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/16/23.12
  2. law.cornell.edu www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/16/23.25
  3. law.cornell.edu www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/16/23.27
  4. ecfr.gov www.ecfr.gov/current/title-16/chapter-I/subchapter-B/part-23
  5. gia.edu www.gia.edu/gems-gemology/winter-1997-synthetic-moissanite-nassau0
  6. geology.com geology.com/gemstones/strontium-titanate/
  7. en.wikipedia.org en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cubic_zirconia
  8. en.wikipedia.org en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yttrium_aluminium_garnet
  9. en.wikipedia.org en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gadolinium_gallium_garnet
  10. en.wikipedia.org en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Strontium_titanate
  11. en.wikipedia.org en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rutile
  12. en.wikipedia.org en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rhinestone
  13. en.wikipedia.org en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead_glass
  14. en.wikipedia.org en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diamonique
  15. gemsociety.org www.gemsociety.org/article/zircon-jewelry-and-gemstone-information/
  16. gemsociety.org www.gemsociety.org/article/spinel-jewelry-and-gemstone-information/
  17. gemsociety.org www.gemsociety.org/article/topaz-jewelry-and-gemstone-information/
  18. webmineral.com webmineral.com/data/Corundum.shtml
  19. qvc.com www.qvc.com/c/jewelry/diamonique/-/mflu-1z141d3/c.html
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